Volterra

About two hours west of Vircenne, Volterra is a fascinating town that is more real and less touristy than its over-subscribed neighbour San Gimignano and as part of a day out that takes in both towns it is priceless. Do morning and lunch in San G and then afternoon and dinner in Volterra and you will not be disappointed.


History

The Etruscans built the foundations of this magnificent fortified city some 2700 years ago on the top of a steep hill with a flat top. The centre of a thriving industry, the town, then known as Velathri, prospered from the surrounding area which was the richest mining area in the whole of Italy and where sulphur, salt, lead, tin and iron could be found. And of course the conquering Romans made full use of the amenities, renaming it Volterra, while early Christians found it a convenient haven from Rome. In 1361 the city came under Florentine rule, only to revolt in 1470 over the 'affair of the alum' that saw Lorenzo de Medici come head to head with Pope Sixtus IV and subdue the Volterran's with a ferocity unbecoming that of the ideal Renaissance Prince. Subsequently, Volterra turned back to mining and working alabaster, which is still the city's biggest business today.


Places to visit in Volterra

The Palazzo dei Priori, built in 1208, is the oldest building of its kind in Tuscany and was the model for the Palazzo Vecchio in Florence. Although the tower has long been closed, if ever they decide to reopen, do try to climb to the top. On a good day it affords fantastic views as far as Elba and Corsica.

The Fortezza Medicea is the fanciest gaol in the whole of the world. Built by Lorenzo de Medici in 1472, it is an amazingly long and eminently refined palace that has housed the city's wrongdoers almost since the day it was finished.

Parco Arcaelogica lies just below the prison and is unlike any other garden in Tuscany as it features the most wonderful English-style manicured lawns and shady enclaves that would not seem out of place in an Evelyn Waugh novel.


Places To Eat

Dei Duca Expensive, but maybe the best restaurant in a city not known for its cuisine. The menu proffers a good inexpensive set menu while the a la carte features rabbit with black olives cooked in Vernacchia and a delicious chocolate soufflé.

Via de Castello 2 Tel: (+39) 0588 81510.

Sant Elisa
Great local restaurant serving simple home-cooked food featuring a lot of game. Highlights are the typical pappardelle with wild boar or deer sauce and the magisterial wild boar stew with black olives that together with the crisp Tuscan bread cannot be bettered.

About 3km from the city on the SS88 Tel: (+39) 0588 80034


Festivals

Festivities of San Giusto, June 5th
To celebrate Volterra's patron saint, the city holds a parade, a city-wide "tug of war" and a race held at night in which the participants carry large candles while running through the city centre.

1398 A.D. Medieval Festival (August 21st - 28th)
The city centre is closed off on the weekends (August 21st, 27th & 28th) and visitors can enjoy medieval re-enactments, musicians, jugglers and artisans who dressed in medieval costume revive ancient music, traditions and crafts. Entrance fee: 8 euros.

Flag-waving Competition (Astiludio) (September 4th or 1st Sunday in September)
An absolutely brilliant, awe-inspiring national competition between four groups of medieval flag wavers, a Tuscan tradition since 1406 instated to celebrate the Florentine conquest of the rival city Pisa.

Truffle Festival and Feast (last weekend in October)
Nightly truffle feasts and demonstrations of truffle-hunting techniques and tastings of lots of gorgeous truffle products.