Florence

No doubt you'll have heard that Florence is one of the world's most beautiful cities, that it was once the centre of European arts and culture, and that its cuisine is one of the world's finest. Well, it's all true. One hour North of Vercenni on the Autostrada, Florence is a pretty relaxed yet uncommonly magnificent city. You could arrive there in the morning, take a coffee and a delicious breakfast cornetti in the lovely little bar, Cosi, then sit in the Boboli Gardens and watch the world go by before eating a superb lunch at any of the establishments below. In the afternoon it is worth checking out the historical sites, followed perhaps with a bit of retail therapy on Via Calsiauoli. Finally, you could take the scenic route back to Vircenni, stopping off for a meal at the excellent Osteria dei Passignagno in Greve, safe in the knowledge that you are just 30 minutes from home.


Coffee in Florence

I dolci di Patrizio Cosi
As above featuring the world's finest pastries that will make you weep.
Borgo Albizi15r
Tel: 055 2480367

Caffellatte
A good old-school latteria or milk shop, it serves caffé latte in great big bowls and quite superb soup and crostini (toasted Tuscan bread topped with tomatoes, pate etc.)

Via degli Alfani 39r
Tel: 055 247 8878


Florentine Restaurants

Snacks

Procacci
A fancy looking truffle shop near Santa Maria Novella, it sells tiny truffle rolls and all manner of truffle products that are freshly delivered each and every morning throughout the winter.

Via de Tornabuoni 64r
Tel: 055 211656

Narbone
Situated on the ground floor of the food market, this is a typical Tuscan food stall that specialises in rolls filled with veal intestines that you can eat on the benches opposite, washed down by the rough local wine.
Mercato Centrale open 7am - 2pm

Da Sergio
Just near the San Lorenzo market, this serves inexpensive yet traditional Florentine fare, which is popular with the market traders. The meat casserole with potatoes is excellent, as is the bread and tomato soup.

Piazzas an Lorenzo *r
Tel: 055281 941
Lunch only

Coco Lezzone
A typically no-frills Tuscan restaurant. "Years ago I had a meal there," explains legendary London chef Fergus Henderson. "Pasta with white truffle, roast lamb, sweet red wine and cantucci that really changed the way I think about food. The lamb was so good it was the only thing they put on the plate. I realised that if the key ingredients are good enough, you don't need other things to hide behind."

Via Parionchino 26,501233 Florence
Tel: (+39) 055287178

Cibreo
Fabio Picchi's world famous eatery is popular with locals, who might brave the kidneys and tripe, while the less adventurous might plump for the leg of lamb stuffed with artichokes. Whatever you choose, the food, wine and service are beyond reproach, but you must book. Next door is the equally fine Trattoria Cibreo, which offers a similar menu for about half the price. You cannot book but you can queue.

Via Del Macci 118r
Tel: (+39) 055 234 1100
Open 12:50-2:30 pm and 7:30- 11:15pm
Closed throughout August.

Sostanza
A truly wonderful Florence institution, this is one of the city's last remaining trattorias, which serves the finest bistecca known to man. Furthermore, its petto di burro (chicken in butter) will make your eyes water.

Via Dell Porcelana 25r
Tel: (+39) 055 212691
Open Mon - Fri 12:30 - 2pm and 8-11pm.

Il Latini
This is another institution where you can't book, so simply turn up and hope for the best it is really worth it. On offer is classic Florentine fare, such as bean soup followed by gran pezzo a huge rib of roast beef all served at long tables that you might share with strangers, while the waiters plonk down bottle after bottle of excellent but inexpensive house red.
Via Dei Palchetti 6r (near Palazzo Rucella)
Tel: (+39) 055 210916

Ice Cream
Vivoli
Maybe one of the world's top ice cream shops, this really cannot be missed. The riso or cream of rice gelato is the stuff of myth.

Via Isola delle Stinche 7r
Santa Croce
7.30am - 1am closed Mondays


Things to see in Florence

There is so much history, art and beauty in Florence that the only way to enjoy it is to buy a good guide book and read it thoroughly. Look out for the magnificent Duomo and the Baptistry, the Accademia, the Uffizi (go early morning or lunchtime), the library at San Lorenzo, or simply skip the hustle and bustle and relax in the Boboli Gardens.


Shopping In Florence

Santa Maria Novella
The greatest perfumers in the world reside in the world's most beautiful shop. Established by a group of Dominican monks shortly after 1221, the Officini Profumo - Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, to give it its full name, began by cultivating their own herbs for use in their monastery's hospice, and in the 16th Century were asked to create a fragrance for the trendsetting Catherine de Medici.

Literally bathed in tradition, Santa Maria Novella still use the same methods and ingredients to produce their unique range of products as their founding friars. They do not test on animals, all of the herbs used in their products are grown organically in the hills surrounding Florence, while the original 'shop' (adjacent to the Piazza of the same name) housed in the old monastery, is reminiscent of a mini renaissance cathedral. It was even featured in the film Hannibal.

Via della Scala 16 - Firenze - Italy
Tel: (+39) 055 216276 / (+39) 055 4368315

Mercato Dell Pulci (Flea Market) Piazza del Ciompi
Open only on Sundays selling all manner of great junk.

San Lorenzo A fine food market that seems to sell about a thousand varieties of lettuce on the top floor, while on the ground floor stores sell well-priced wine, porcini mushrooms, pasta and bread... and boy does it smell good.
Cascine Along the riverside. This is where the locals buy knock-off designer bits and pieces. Open Tuesday morning.
Villa Tornabuoni and Via Calsiauoli Where all the big fashion brands such as Prada, Gucci and Ferragamo can be found.

Florentine Festivals

Calcio Storico in Costume. Piazza dei Santa Croce, June.
Teams of 27 men drawn from each of the city's four quarters play four matches of medieval football. The engagements are rough to say the least, while parades, drumming and flag-throwing fill the streets to celebrate the anniversary of the game that was played in defiance in 1530 when Charles V laid siege to the city. The only fixed fixture is on June 24th, while the other dates are pulled out of a hat on Easter Sunday. A cracking day out.

Festa di San Giovanni
A huge firework display on the 24th June, beginning at 10pm near Piazza Michelangelo.

Estate Fiesolano - Late June to August
The Roman theatre puts on concerts, plays, dances and films at reasonable prices. Locals love it.

Festa della Rificolona - September 7th
The city's children gather around Piazza SS Annunziata holding paper lanterns and singing in the streets.